Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Bending Jig for Coaming

After the decks are on I will be adding the cockpit coaming which needs to bend in the corners.  The coaming is made from strips of 6mm plywood. The forward end of the cockpit has a 15" radius, which isn't too bad, but the aft end is a 10" radius which is more than the plywood can take before snapping. So, I will need to soak the strips in boiling water for a bit to make them more pliant, then bend the appropriate section on a bending jig and allow them to cool and dry. Here's a pic of a test strip clamped to the jig. After just a few minutes in the soak it made the bend easily.


Sunday, April 29, 2012

Decking, paint and sundries


With the hull flipped back upright, it’s has been much easier to take stock of what remains to be done. Rather than get too caught up in doing everything in the most logical, efficient order, I’ve decided to work on several facets simultaneously.

First off, all the exposed wood needs to be thoroughly epoxy coated and inspected closely for screw / nail holes that need to be filled. The mast steps and mast tube will be installed. The cockpit will be painted (a light tan to reduce glare a bit). And finally, the decks will be installed.

So, in no particular order;
 

 Here is a shot of the primer coat of porch paint going on under the foredeck area. For those familiar with the Core Sound design, this area might look a bit different to you. The half-oval opening at the foredeck is formed by larger-than-designed side gussets under the foredeck beam. The plans call for these gussets to only extend a few inches in from the hull side leaving area under the foredeck mostly open. I have opted to extend these for two reasons. First, being of a “prosperous” body-type, I wanted to add a bit of strength to the foredeck beam for those time I need to stand there. Second, I wanted a slightly more enclosed space for storing items out of the elements. My hope is that even in nasty conditions when water can slop onto the seat tops, it will not be able to slosh forward into this area very easily. I’m planning to enclose this forward area with netting held in place by a bungee edge. This should keep things securely in place yet still be make it easy to quickly lift the bungee and access items.


 "William of Orange” inspects the plans and laments the fact that this boat will have no crow’s nest.



 The main mast tube is roughly in place. I’m struggling a bit with getting this aligned perfectly. It needs to be centered athwartship, and raked back at 2 degrees. This needs to be done before installing the foredecking. Otherwise I will have to crawl in through the foredeck hatch to do the fiberglass work. While I know this can be done (shout-out to my friend Charlie Jones, who did this on a Core Sound 17 while afloat after the mast tube broke loose), it does not look even the tiniest bit like fun.


Decking is starting to go in place. Cutting the panels to shape was simple since I’m planning to epoxy them in place first, then trim them to exact shape with a flush-cut router bit. Here I’m just dry fitting the two aft panels just as a reality check. Looks okay to me.



Here is the first piece of decking getting epoxied in place. If you ask a boat builder how many clamps are enough, guess what they will tell you?




With the decking going on it’s much easier to get a real sense of how the boat will feel when sailing. I’ve sailed the CS17 in the past and my impressions then where that the cockpit feels huge and the freeboard feels low. Comfortable and close to water, both things I like.












Saturday, March 31, 2012

Deck framing

Flipped the boat upright on Thursday and spent the weekend working on the deck framing.







Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Cradle construction

Before flipping the bull back over to finish the decks, I decided to rebuild the cradle. This cradle is in a single piece that can be bolted onto a trailer frame when the time comes.



Mast Track Installation

After 5-6 coats of paint, the masts are ready for the external track which is riveted in place with stainless steel rivets. Now I know why people spend good money on professional rivet guns. Setting stainless rivets with a cheap rivet gun is very difficult. All the tendons in my hands have been mashed to death and my forearms will be sore for a week. And that's after just one of the masts.

You can see in the pics here that the heads of the rivets stand a bit proud of the bottom of the track. That's because I ordered rivets designed for a countersunk hole. Oops. But they are snug and do not stick up enough to interfere with the sail slides, so there should be no problem. Fingers crossed.